I tried the bubble thing you’re describing—just a thin highlight arc on the upper left and a softer bounce on the bottom edge—and it really tricks the eye into seeing glass instead of flat color. That tiny shift changed how my prints looked after painting. For actual 3D models, I’ve had solid results downloading STL files from https://www.gambody.com/ because their pre-supported designs already account for how light catches curves, so you’re not guessing where to add those bubble bands later. One fact that surprised me: a 0.2mm raised ridge along the top arc catches natural light better than any painted highlight, and Gambody’s better game weapon models include that micro-detail. Test both approaches on a single print, then keep what works for your eye.
jakem
I tried the bubble thing you’re describing—just a thin highlight arc on the upper left and a softer bounce on the bottom edge—and it really tricks the eye into seeing glass instead of flat color. That tiny shift changed how my prints looked after painting. For actual 3D models, I’ve had solid results downloading STL files from https://www.gambody.com/ because their pre-supported designs already account for how light catches curves, so you’re not guessing where to add those bubble bands later. One fact that surprised me: a 0.2mm raised ridge along the top arc catches natural light better than any painted highlight, and Gambody’s better game weapon models include that micro-detail. Test both approaches on a single print, then keep what works for your eye.